If there has been something of a singular voice to the New York spring/summer 2015 collections thus far - sports stuff, pastel colours, the bra top and trouser combo from a 2013 Balenciaga collection (we’ve seen that look everywhere) - there are still a few rebels.
Rodartegram. Because we’ve all got to do one today. Liked it.
Thom Browne is really bloody good.
Best hat ever at Thom Browne.
For spring/summer 2015 Versace has been exported across the Atlantic to give New York a much-needed boost, like a shot of Vitamin D right into the fleshy flanks.
Vitamin D is, of course, Donatella Versace – fashion’s Dr Feelgood. If the Versace label were a prescription drug, it would alleviate fatigue and probably a flagging libido.
Many Victoria Beckham collections resemble a high-fashion supermarket sweep, scooping up references from different, not-too-distant collections and synthesising them into an almost-new whole. Last season I mentioned Beckham’s similarity to Celine. It was there again this time round, with a bit of Comme des Garçons, some Junya Watanabe, a huge dollop of Jil Sander. No one can quite blend it like Beckham - except, perhaps, Phoebe Philo herself, whose Celine collections are a similar amalgam, like a three-dimensional fashion tear sheet wrapped around her models’ skinny torsos.
So many of the collections we see [in New York] are the fashion equivalent of a microwaveable three-cheese lasagne. They’re prepacked, easily consumed, serviceable but frequently lacking spice.
Not especially. I wasn’t in New York.
I didn’t see it (I only arrived in New York on Friday morning), and I still haven’t seen it, as images of the actual clothes seem few and far between. So it wouldn’t be fair to offer an opinion really.
Apparently it didn’t show the whole of the spring 2015 collection, so I do wonder what the point was, in all honesty. Hopefully we’ll see the rest of the clothes shortly so I can form an informed opinion.
Although frankly, if you think I would wait to agree with the consensus, I don’t really know why you bother asking me what I think.
Pearly queens chez Altuzarra. It was very good.
Puffy, pointless marshmallowy fashion comprised of old ideas in new fabrics, and with new labels (usually replacing ones that once said “Prada”).
There’s something quintessentially American about what Jason Wu does. Actually, that whole rags-to-riches (or rather, rags-to-rich-rags) story is very much the fashion equivalent of the American dream: a little boy who loved playing with dolls gets to dress the First Lady. And lots of other ladies, too - many of whom lunch. Boy meets girl, boy dresses her in a ball gown. Oldest story in the book.
Karlie’s stalking. It’s officially the fashions.
I head to New York on Friday - by the end of the month in Paris, I will have seen about 120 labels’ presentations and around 6,000 individual outfits.
Daunting numbers. Here’s another: of all those, I estimate that only a dozen designers really count. Not in terms of shifting clothes - they all do that, with varying degrees of success. But when it comes to shifting fashion, the real game-changers are few and far between.
The rest frequently just add a few frills to old ideas and gussy them up as something new.